32 Hobby Terms Every New Sports Card Collector Should Know

Updated September 7, 2025

If you’re new to sports card collecting, Pokémon cards, or trading cards in general, you’ve probably already realized the hobby has its own language. Collectors casually throw around words like “slab,” “wax,” “RPA,” and “comps,” and it can sound like a foreign tongue when you first walk into a card show or join your first live break. Don’t worry—you don’t have to feel lost. Once you learn the basic vocabulary, everything starts to click.

This guide breaks down 32 of the most common hobby terms you’ll hear in the sports card and trading card world. Each one comes with clear explanations, examples, and context so that you can step into any show, shop, or stream with confidence.

Slab

A slab is a trading card that has been graded and sealed inside a hard plastic case by a professional grading company such as PSA, Beckett (BGS), or SGC. The grading company assigns the card a condition rating, usually on a scale from 1 to 10, and includes it on the label. For collectors, slabs are valuable because they guarantee authenticity and condition. A PSA 10 rookie can be worth multiples of the same card sold raw. Beginners should think of slabs as the certified, tamper-proof version of a trading card.

Raw

A raw card is simply a card that has not been graded. It could be fresh out of a pack or stored in a sleeve or binder. Raw cards are usually cheaper because their condition is not guaranteed by a grading company, but that also makes them more risky if you’re trying to invest. Many collectors buy raw cards with the goal of sending them in for grading, but not every raw card is worth grading. The trick is to evaluate condition carefully and check comps before deciding.

Comps

“Comps” is short for comparables, and it refers to looking up recent sales data to see what a card is actually worth. In today’s hobby, the most common place to check comps is eBay sold listings. For example, if three Luka Dončić Prizm Silver rookies sold in the past week for around $400, that’s the going comp. Dealers, breakers, and collectors all rely on comps as the baseline for pricing. If you want to buy smart, never skip this step.

Pull

A pull is any card you get when you open a pack. Sometimes you’ll hear it used casually, as in “That was a nice pull,” or “I pulled a Zion rookie.” Pulls can be common base cards, inserts, or big hits—it just refers to the act of pulling a card from sealed product.

Hit

A hit is a pull that stands out as something valuable. Think autographs, low-numbered parallels, case hits, or high-demand rookies. The word “hit” is used a lot in live breaks where breakers shout, “Big hit!” when someone scores something worth celebrating. For beginners, it helps to think of pulls as everything you get and hits as the special cards that make ripping packs exciting.

Case Hit

A case hit is a rare card that is typically found only once per sealed case of boxes. Since a case often contains 12 or more boxes, case hits are highly sought after. Examples include Kaboom inserts from Panini or Color Blast inserts in Prizm. Collectors chase these cards because of their rarity and strong resale value. If someone tells you they found a case hit, know you’re looking at a card that doesn’t come around often.

Mojo, Banger, Monster

These are hype terms you’ll hear all the time in the hobby. Mojo often refers to luck or something flashy. A banger is a great card—something you’d be proud to show off. A monster is hobby slang for a truly massive pull, often worth hundreds or thousands of dollars. These terms don’t have official definitions but they’re part of the culture and bring energy to the collecting community.

PC (Personal Collection)

Your PC, or personal collection, is the group of cards you keep for yourself, not to sell or trade. Every collector’s PC is unique. Some people build a PC around their favorite player or team, while others collect Pokémon sets they loved as kids, or even oddball inserts that just look cool. Saying “That’s for my PC” is the same as saying, “I’m keeping this one.”

Break

A break, also called a group break, is when sealed product is opened live—either in person or online—and spots are sold to participants. Collectors buy in by team, player, or division, and whatever cards come out of the packs for their slot belong to them. Breaks can be random (you get assigned a random team), pick-your-team (you choose and pay for a specific team), or personals (where you buy the box yourself). Breaks are social and fun, but they are also risky—you may hit big or you may get skunked, which means you walk away with nothing significant.

Wax

Wax is hobby slang for sealed product. It comes from the vintage era when packs were sealed in wax paper. Today, “wax” refers to packs, boxes, and even sealed cases. Collectors may choose to rip wax (open packs) or hold wax (keep boxes sealed as an investment). Older wax, especially from the 1980s and 90s, can be highly valuable if unopened.

Dollar Box

The dollar box, or value box, is a staple at card shows. It’s a box full of lower-priced singles, often organized by price—$1, $5, or $10. Many collectors love digging through dollar boxes because they can find hidden gems, rookies of players who might break out later, or affordable cards for their PC. Dollar boxes are a beginner-friendly way to collect without spending big money.

RPA

An RPA, or Rookie Patch Autograph, is one of the most sought-after modern card types. It combines a rookie card with both a jersey patch and an autograph. RPAs are often numbered and are the centerpiece of many collectors’ chases. If you’re collecting a hot rookie, their RPA is usually the crown jewel of their rookie-year cards.

SSP

An SSP, or Super Short Print, is a card that is printed in very low quantities. These cards are usually much rarer than regular short prints and can be highly desirable. Even if they aren’t numbered, collectors know SSPs are tough to find. Inserts like Panini’s Downtown are examples of SSPs.

Parallel

A parallel is a variation of a base card with different design elements—usually color, pattern, or numbering. For example, a base card might have a silver version, a blue /199, or a gold /10. Parallels give collectors more options to chase, and numbered parallels can be especially valuable.

Refractor, Prizm, Holo

Shiny cards with reflective finishes are known by different names depending on the product. In Topps products, they’re called refractors. In Panini products, they’re Prizms. In Pokémon, they’re Holos. These variations are popular because of their eye appeal and collectability. Some collectors specialize in chasing certain refractor colors or holo patterns.

Auto

An auto is simply an autograph card. It may be signed directly on the card (called an on-card auto) or on a sticker that was later applied to the card (sticker auto). On-card autos are generally more desirable because they feel more authentic and are often tied to higher-end products.

Relic or Patch

Relic cards include a piece of memorabilia—most often a jersey, but sometimes bats, balls, or shoes. When it’s fabric, collectors call it a patch card. Game-worn relics, where the player actually wore the item during a game, are more valuable than player-worn, where the player only wore it briefly or not at all.

Numbered Card

A numbered card, also called a serial-numbered card, has the production run stamped on it, like “34/99.” Lower-numbered cards are more rare and often carry higher value. Collectors especially prize jersey-numbered cards, like “23/99” for a Michael Jordan card.

Gem Mint

Gem Mint is the highest grade a card can achieve. For PSA, it’s a 10; for BGS, it’s a 9.5 or 10; for SGC, it’s a 10. Gem Mint cards represent near-perfect condition and can sell for multiples of the same card in lower grades.

Raw Grade

Sometimes sellers will give a raw card their own “raw grade,” like RG 9.5, to estimate how it might grade if submitted. This is subjective and not official. Beginners should be cautious with raw grades—only trust official grading company slabs.

Pop Report

Population reports are published by grading companies and show how many copies of a specific card exist at each grade level. For example, if only 20 PSA 10s of a certain rookie card exist, that makes it much more desirable. Collectors use pop reports to gauge rarity and value.

True Rookie

A true rookie card is the first official card of a player, often with the RC logo on modern releases. While there may be prospect cards produced earlier (especially in baseball), the true rookie is generally the card collectors chase.

Prospect Card

Prospect cards feature players before they officially debut in the major leagues. These are most common in Bowman baseball products, which highlight top prospects. Prospecting can be risky but rewarding—buying a player’s cards before they’re stars can pay off if they succeed.

Insert

Inserts are cards that are outside of the base set. They often have special designs, themes, or artwork. Some inserts are fairly common, while others are case hits or SSPs. Collectors often chase complete insert sets or hunt for rare insert parallels.

Chase Card

The chase card is the one everyone wants from a product. It could be a star rookie, an RPA, or a rare insert. The chase drives demand for boxes, as collectors rip packs in hopes of pulling that one big card. For example, the Zion Williamson Silver Prizm was the chase card in 2019 Prizm Basketball.

Hobby Box vs. Retail Box

Hobby boxes are sold through card shops and online retailers, and they usually guarantee hits like autographs or relics. Retail boxes are sold at stores like Walmart and Target. They’re cheaper but hits are harder to pull. Knowing the difference helps set your expectations before buying.

Blaster Box

A blaster box is a small retail product, usually priced around $25–$35. They typically contain 6–8 packs with a limited number of cards per pack. Blasters are the most beginner-friendly way to rip wax since they’re affordable and easy to find at big-box stores. Odds of hitting autographs or relics are low, but sometimes exclusive parallels or inserts are only available in blasters.

Mega Box

A mega box is a larger retail product, usually $50–$70, and contains more packs than a blaster. Megas sometimes guarantee a specific type of card, like a relic, auto, or exclusive parallel. They’re popular because they strike a balance between affordability and a better chance of hits compared to blasters.

Fat Pack

A fat pack is a thick single pack of cards, often containing 30–40 cards in one shot. These are usually priced around $8–$12 and are great for building sets because you get more base cards per pack. Fat packs sometimes include exclusive parallels, but like other retail products, they have lower odds of premium hits compared to hobby boxes.

Grading Scale

Each grading company has its own system. PSA uses a 1–10 scale, with 10 as Gem Mint. BGS also uses a 1–10 scale but adds subgrades for centering, corners, edges, and surface. SGC uses a similar 1–10 scale but is known for its tuxedo-black slab design. Understanding these scales helps collectors compare cards across companies.

Junk Wax Era

The Junk Wax Era refers to the late 1980s and early 1990s, when card companies massively overproduced sports cards. Millions of cards were printed, and as a result, most have little value today. That said, they carry nostalgia and are an easy entry point for beginners who want to collect without spending much.

Grail

Every collector has a grail—the card they dream of owning above all others. For some, it might be a 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle. For others, a 1/1 rookie patch auto of their favorite modern player, or a classic Pokémon holo. Chasing your grail is part of what keeps collecting fun and personal.

Any Hobby Terms You Didn’t Know?

Once you know the language of the hobby, the world of collecting becomes a lot less intimidating. These 30 hobby terms cover the basics—from understanding what a slab is to recognizing why case hits and RPAs are so coveted. Whether you’re digging through dollar boxes, buying into your first break, or hunting down your grail, knowing the vocabulary helps you buy smarter, negotiate better, and connect more with the community.

Collecting isn’t just about the cards—it’s about the experience, the friendships, and the thrill of the hunt. Learn the lingo, join the conversation, and you’ll feel right at home at your next show or break.

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